PatternReview Winter Street Dress

Welcome to the second stop of the Winter Street Dress blog tour!!  If you missed the first stop at Sew Crafty Chemist, drop by and catch up with Nakisha.  Her Winter Street Dress is

fantastic Breaking Bad font

See that Breaking Bad thing I did with the “Ta” for tantalum.. cuz she’s a chemist.  No, I have too much time on my hands, there’s a website that does this graphic for me.  Breaking Bad generator.

A Dress for All Seasons

The Winter Street Dress is the cousin of the Summer Street Dress. Between these two dresses, you have all seasons covered.   The Winter Street dress is a great for winter but also as transitional dress with the different sleeve lengths.  The skirt has box pleats in the front and back giving it a tulip shape.  The skirt falls above the knee which is perfect wear with tall boots in the Winter.  Read more about it on the PatternReview Blog.  For my Winter Street, I made a California winter version.  It doesn’t get that cold here so I made the elbow length sleeve with the flounces that brings it to about 3/4 sleeve length.

PR Winter Street Dress

 

Indecisiveness for the Win

The pattern recommends a medium weight knit like ponte for a structured look.  For the flounce version, they recommend a fabric with drape.  I wanted the structured skirt and the soft flounce sleeve, so what’s a sewist to do?  I did both!!  I modified the bodice to have the sheer knit fabric on top and ponte de roma fabric on the bottom.  To do this I drew a horizontal-ish line at around underarm level, cut the front and back bodice along the line and added 3/8” seam allowance to each portion.

Contrast Bodice

I sewed the top and bottom piece of the bodice back together and proceeded as normal.  I’ve been seeing this contrast top look everywhere and really love it.

Bodice

I Need More Curves

Another slight modification I did was to make the skirt a bit more tulip shaped.  The skirt on the pattern is a straighter down the side seams.  I needed more shaping to hide the mostly shapeless body underneath.  It was really easy modification.  I took a hip curve ruler and drew a gentle curve starting at the hips and gradually tapering in towards the hem.  The taper should be about an 1” at the hem for a total of -4″ in hem circumference.  You can free hand this if you don’t have a hip curve ruler.

Tulip Skirt

Fit Modifications

Surprisingly I didn’t need too many modifications for fit.  The dress is drafted for a C-cup and I’m an A-cup.  I didn’t have a need for a SBA because the style is a looser fit.  I also didn’t have to make any shoulder slope or petite adjustment which is a first.

I did have to make adjustment to the front bodice and skirt piece.  The skirt pattern is the same for the front and the back.  I have a lot more junk in the trunk.  My earlier claims is a *mostly* shapeless body.  I ended up taking the front in by about 1” on each side seam for a total of -2”.  This caused the pleats to be too far out giving me that not-so-flattering winged look.  Simple fix, I moved the pleats in closer to the center front.

Front Pleats

The change in the front skirt also meant that I had to adjust the front bodice to match at the waist.  To do this I drew a line from the underarm sleeve and tapered in at the waist 1”.

More Eye Candy

Isn’t my dress beautiful and oh so stylish?!?  I really love the dress with the sleeves and contrast bodice.  Read more on my Pattern Review.

Sleeve

Contrast

Finished Winter Street Collage

Winter Street Dress Blog Tour Continues

The Winter Street Dress Blog tour has many more stops.  I can’t wait to see all the different versions.  Tomorrow’s stop is the brilliant Velosewer at  http://www.cleverthinking99.com/  Come join us for a lot more Winter Street fun.  Blog tour schedule is below.

  1. Sew Crafty Chemist    4/2/2014
  2. Detective Houndstooth  4/3/2014
  3. How good is that?  4/4/2014
  4. Trumbelina Sews   4/5/2014
  5. daniKate Designs  4/6/2014
  6. Sherril’s Sewing Saga  4/7/2014
  7. Sharon Sews  4/8/2014
  8. Stitchin’ in My Kitchen  4/9/2014
  9. sewing forward
  10. Hellou’s Handmades  4/11/2014
  11. Crafted by Carrie  4/12/2014
  12. Beyond the Basic Block   4/13/2014
  13. Jan Made  4/14/2014
  14. Julia Bobbin  4/15/2014

Happy Winter Dress Sewing,

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Victory Patterns Lola

Victory Patterns Lola

While shopping at The Fabric Store with my IRL sewing friend Jill from Oh Crafty One,   I came across this lovely deep red Merino sweatshirt like fabric.  I really loved the fabric but wasn’t sure I wanted to make sweat pants from such a beautiful piece of fabric.  This is where my in-the-know sewing friend comes in to rescue me.  Jill recommended the Lola pattern from Victory Patterns and it was just perfect.

 

A match made in sewing heaven.

A match made in sewing heaven.

Given the pricey cost of the fabric, I bought 1.5 yards despite the fabric requirement of 2 yards.  Hey, I’m 5’ tall and cut in a single layer, how much fabric could I possibly need?!?  What a (happy) mistake this ended up being.  Without enough fabric I decided to make the sleeves in an oatmeal color fabric with a terry cloth-like wrong side.  And the extra from the oatmeal fabric would make a fantastic hood.

So the mystery begins…

How was I going to do this? First I measured the finished neck measurement.  I needed the bottom edge of the hood to be the same length.  I borrowed the hood pattern McCall’s 4261 which I had in my stash.  I measured the bottom of the hood and discovered that even the largest size wasn’t big enough because the pattern’s wide neck line.

measure hoodmeasure neckline

At this point my choice was either to

A)     Make the hood bigger or

B)      Make the neck line smaller by raising it

Raising the neckline was a lot more difficult than it seem in my head.  The center back tapers in too much and ruins the lines of the dress.  I opted for option B.  Making the hood bigger was very simple.  I simply added to the front and some extra for a drawcord.  Now adding to the front is not the correct way to do this but I didn’t care too much about how the hood would fit.  Though a little more height because of the lower neck line would have been nicer.  To complete the hood, I put in a red eyelet using a Dritz eyelet plier.  For the cord I used a braided trim from JoAnn’s  with a simple knot at the ends.  I also did a red contrast stitching on the oatmeal fabric and oatmeal topstitching on the triangle detail.

Victory Patterns Hood Close Up

I really love how it came out.  And the dress is super cozy and warm.  I didn’t think I would like the pockets since I’m pear-shaped and this would have added more width.  It turns out the pockets don’t stick out too much and they’re also pretty convenient for cold hands. More info on my Pattern Review

Victory Patterns Lola Hood

 Victory Pattern Hood Side

Happy sewing,

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