SBCC Limoncello Cardigan

SBCC Limoncello Cardigan Front

Winter Has Left the Building

Seriously I think we had 2 weeks of winter here in Southern California.  Not that I’m complaining.  Depending on the day it’s feels like Spring or Summer has arrived.  I’ve been looking for thin cardigan to throw on on “chilly” nights.  The SBCC Limoncello cardigan was just what I was looking for.  It was available in PDF so I could make it quickly before the winter decides to come back.  I finished everything but the hemming in one night.  Hemming and pressing the next night and I was dancing around it.  The fabric was gifted to me by my friend Raye Ann.  I think she said she got it at Rimmon Fabrics in LA.  I felt bad about taking so much fabric from her but I’m glad I did.  I had to recut the front numerous times due to repeated user error.  There was no wine involved so I’m not sure what my issue was.

Small Changes

I made 1 size smaller due to the more stretchiness of my fabric.  I lengthen the sleeves to about elbow length/half sleeve.  I prefer 3/4 sleeve but it just didn’t look right with the length of the cardigan.  Lastly I eliminated the back neck bias trim and made a facing.  I thought the trim added too much bulk for my very thin fabric.  It wouldn’t finish the garment as cleanly.  To make the back facing I traced the back piece and cut across almost like making a yoke.  When I sewed it I sandwiched the front pieces in between.  Sorry I don’t have any pics of the steps but it’s very common method of attaching a facing.

SBCC Limoncello Cardigan Facing

I was worried the extra layer would show through but it doesn’t if it’s laying flat.

SBCC Limoncello Cardiga BackI really like the swingy-ness of the back.  Speaking of swingy-ness…

SBCC Limoncello Cardigan Swing This is my best shot and an action shot.  Getting the timer, swinging action and my face to coordinate was a challenge.

Happy Lunar New Year

For anyone celebrating the Lunar New Year, I wish you a year of sewing success.  Chúc mừng năm mới.  That’s happy new year in Vietnamese.

 

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It’s That Cardigan Again – McCall’s 6844

There has been a gazillion makes of this cardigan out on the interwebs.   Now there’s a gazillion +1 makes of McCall’s 6844. My main advice on this pattern is to ignore the instructions which make things way more difficult than necessary.

McCall 6844 Front1

Steps to Ignore

Step #1 &2: Easestitching the shoulder edge. This is unnecessary extra work. Am I missing something? It’s a knit. You just stretch the 2 pieces so they’re the same lengths and sew.  If you feel the need to stabilize the shoulder seam use clear elastic but not that awful stuff from JoAnn’s.  Nice soft clear elastic.

Step 3: Staystitching the neck edge. Unless you’re using a 4 way/all way knit I don’t see why you would be concern about stabilizing the neck edge. If you’re stabilizing the neck, what about the rest of the cardigan that will be stretching? This doesn’t make any sense.

Step 17: Seriously why is there more easestitching on the sleeve?! Just stretch the pieces to match and sew.

Step 19: Sew the sleeves in flat after step #3. I don’t see the benefit of setting it in, in this particular case.

Step 10: I didn’t interface the collar/band. I don’t mind the soft drape of the collar. In fact I think it goes well with the drape of the peplum.

Step 12-16: I burrito-ed the collar for a cleaner finish. Ok so this step makes it more complicated but I think the results are nicer. At step 12, sew only one of the collar ends closed. Leave the other end open for unstuffing the burrito. If you’re not familiar with the burrito method, imagine the collar is your tortilla and the bodice being the filling. Place the collar piece with right sides up and put the bodice in the middle. Match up one of the collar edge with the bodice edge and pin. Wrap the collar around the bodice and re-pin so all 3 layers are together.

Catch 3 Layers

It should look like a long, long burrito.

One Long Burrito

Sew the long edge, making sure not to catch anything that doesn’t belong. Then reach into the opening of the collar and pull the bodice out.

Unstuff the Burrito

Voila you have your collar with the edges inside the collar. Nice and clean.

Nice Clean Finish on Collar

Lastly I folded up the seam allowance of the collar’s opened end and sew it closed. I hand sewed using a ladder stitch because I didn’t have the sewing machine set-up. I used my serger or cover stitch for all the steps.

Ladder stitch the collar

 

More Things to Ignore

Ignore the sizing. According to my body measurements I should be a M in the bust, L waist and M hips. I made a XS based on my really unscientific yet somehow really reliable wrap method. My fabric is the right amount of stretch that the pattern recommends so the sizing difference isn’t due to having a stretchier fabric.

Ignore the petite lines. They are useless. First, they’re essentially the lengthen/shorten lines like on most patterns. And petiting isn’t just about length; it’s also about proportions and narrowing in areas. Secondly, I didn’t even need to shorten the pattern. I would think regular people may need to lengthen.

 

One More Point for Actual Sewing

Let’s put one more on the score board for actual sewing as opposed to the non-sewing sewing things I’ve been doing. It only took ignoring and/or modifying half of the instructions. Has anyone else sewn a pattern with this much unnecessary steps? I really do like the cardigan and it will be getting plenty of wear coming Fall. It’s still in the 90s/100s here. Ick!

Quick question on middle pic below.  Do I have a future as a catalog model or that street person selling fake Rolex watches from inside of their coats?

McCall 6844 Collage

 Link to my Pattern Review.

Happy Sewing,

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