Self Drafted Tank and Jalie Jean Take Two

April Fool’s

As many of you have figured out by now my April 1st post about launching a pattern line of stacking ring dress, macaron hat and lobster bib was a joke. For anyone who missed the post or want to have another laugh I highly advise you go read it now. I’ll be here waiting…


Self Drafted Tank

Welcome back. I have a few things to share. The first is this self drafted tank.

Self Draft Tank Front

I’ve been wanting to make some tank tops for the summer.  I love my Kirstin Kimono tees but I don’t like the tan lines. I was going to make more of the So, Zo tanks but the thin strap leaves my bra straps showing, so this tank is perfect. I also love the interesting arc shaped seam line that lets me play with stripes.

Self Draft Tank Side

I do love stripes. I’m hoping the horizontal stripe, bust gathers and empire-ish seam could do my small bust some good. So far I’ve made 3 of these tops, they’re so quick to make if you’re a sloppy sewer like me.

Self Draft Tank Back



Jalie Jean Take Two

The second thing I wanted to share was another version of Jalie (pajama) Jeans. This version is in blue with an orange topstitch. I did a fancier “fly” front design.

Jalie Jean Part 2 Fly

And no more thigh pockets! I tried out a new pocket design that was a partial success. I like the design it’s just not center. Oops. If you missed the post on how I sew on the pocket design check it out here.

Jalie Jean Part 2 Pockets



Serger Clean Out

I cleaned out and oiled my serger for the first time in a decade. I’m not even sure if I’m suppose to oil the thing. Just like taking apart a sewing machine, make sure you take lots pics and lay out the components in the order that you take it apart.  Don’t ask me how I know, ask the extra screw. So I did eventually find where that screw was suppose to go. Phew!

Serger Clean Out



Waffle’s 7th Birthday

Lastly it was Waffle’s 7th birthday on April Fool’s. If I had to give up sewing or the dog, I give up sewing. Love this little guy.

Waffle Turns 7

This is my favorite pictures of him of all time. He had such a bobble head. The pic has that soft glamour shoot look. Y’all remember those from the 80s?

4 Weeks

Happy Sewing,

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16 Responses to Self Drafted Tank and Jalie Jean Take Two

  1. Mads says:

    Your tank is so cute! I love it in the stripes. And Happy Birthday, Waffle!! Baby bassets always look so hilarious with their enormous skulls (in a cute way)–how cool that you have that picture of him as an itty bitty basset baby!

  2. accordion3 says:

    Nice drafting! Loving the stripe placing too, and those jeans look very comfy.

  3. Kay says:

    Ooooooh! That’s a fabulous tank…If you aren’t releasing that as a pattern, could you please show us how you did it? I can see how the cured seam line is made, but how did the gathers come into the picture? share please.

  4. Carrie says:

    Love that tank top! It fits you great and look super comfortable (same with the jammie jeans :)
    Also, Waffle is just the cutest thing! That puppy picture is too adorable for words

  5. aleah says:

    I love that tank! If you’re not going to release it as a pattern (which you really should, it’s super cute and not like anything else I’ve seen lately), can I at least trace your dodgy draft next time I see you? ;)
    Waffle’s so cute! I love the kitten pics we have of our cat too – they’re so adorable when they’re tiny.

    • Yes, you are welcome to trace my dodgy draft. I might actually clean up the draft before then. Every time I make it I’m fixing the same problems on the fly. I want to see your kitten pics. So adorable.

  6. rtrittel says:

    Your tank is lovely – well done! Oh, that ‘bobble-head’ Waffle is soooo cute! Can’t blame you for loving that little guy!

  7. Ginny says:

    I adore your tank!!! It’s so fun, feminine and flattering. Will there be a pattern? The jammie jeans look so comfy and cute — I should make something similar. Great sewing!!!

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Detective Houndstooth Sewing Pattern Launch

Did You Miss Me?

Some of you might have noticed that I haven’t been blogging lately. My insecure blogger-self hopes that you did. I’ve been locked up in my sewing room working on a super top secret sewing project. I’m so thrilled to announce that I’m jumping on yet another bandwagon and launching a sewing pattern line.  It’s named after my blog, Detective Houndstooth.

Det HT Sewing Pattern Banner

Mysterious Sewing Patterns

As you can see by my tagline, I’m creating a line of mysterious sewing patterns. I will be adding tons of fun puzzles and mysterious for  you to solve because sewing up a pattern isn’t enough of a challenge.

1) Ease: I won’t spell out the ease. You have to guess what it is by measuring the pattern pieces and subtracting the body measurement. I’ll keep you guessing by throwing in negative ease on a woven garment. You won’t know if it’s too big or too small until you’re trying on the garment. I can hear the laughter now.

2) Instructions: The instructions will be filled with fun puzzles. The steps will be out of sequence and once in a while I’ll leave out a step.  You fill in the blank. What fun!

3) Pattern PDF: I will be only selling PDFs. The PDFs will be printed on no less than 70 pages.  Pattern pieces will be put across as many sheets as possible for maximum mystery. Keep your eyes out on those itty bitty slivers of a pattern piece corner.


Upcoming Patterns

Due to the huge success of my free patterns which has made me a whopping -$52 (it’s a long story) I’m making the most downloaded ones into patterns. First up is a dress based on my very popular stacking ring pattern. The rings are easy to fit and hides a number of body issues. Separate rings are a great color blocking opportunity.

Det HT Stacking Ring Dress

My second pattern will be a hat based on my macaron measuring tape. Macarons are all the rage in foodie world. Now you, too, can be on the bleeding edge of fashion with this hat.  The retractable measuring tape can also double as a chin strap. Never lose your hat in the wind again.

Det HT Macaron Hat

The third pattern that I’ll be launching is in the functional fashion category, a lobster bib based off my of reuseable bag tutorial. This lobster bib folds up and can nicely fit in your purse. You’ll never be caught without one if you’re ever at a surprise lobster dinner. What? That doesn’t happen to you once a month? The roomy bag will catch all your spills with room to spare. *No lobsters were harmed in the making of this pattern.*

Det HT Lobster Bib

Testers Needed

Of course I won’t dare release a pattern without testing it out first. So if anyone wants to be baffled and befuddled by a sewing pattern, please let me know in the comments. You will need to give me feedback within 2 days of getting the pattern. It is mandatory that you participate in the blog hop and write reviews on 4 different sites.  You are highly encouraged to write only nice things. Any negative comments will be blamed on user error and dismissed immediately.

Don’t forget to sign up in the comments of this post.  So who’s in?

Happy mystery sewing,

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21 Responses to Detective Houndstooth Sewing Pattern Launch

  1. Pingback: Self Drafted Tank and Jalie Jean Take Two - Detective Houndstooth

  2. Mads says:

    LOLOL!! This post and the hilarious photos made my day.

  3. LindaC says:

    This is hysterical. Thanks for the smiles. Is it wrong that I want a macaron hat? ;)

  4. Caroline says:

    You are so damn funny! This is the best April Fool’s prank I saw this year. And a very astute commentary on certain indie pattern companies too ;-).

  5. aleah says:

    Nhi, this is amazing!! Can I just say that maybe my favorite thing about your totally fantastic photoshops is that your shoes match the rings dress. Actually, just everything about the ring dress is awesome. Count me in the blog hop :)

  6. BeccaA says:

    These patterns sound great. I can’t wait to fill in the blanks and tape all that paper together. ROTFL–great post!

  7. Kyle says:

    I am *howling* with laughter! Quite clever, Det. Houndstooth!!

  8. nothy lane says:

    This is the best blog post I’ve read this year! SO funny…

  9. Hi Nhi,
    We met at PR San Francisco a few years ago! I finally got my act together and started a blog. I wouldn’t mind testing. Will you be at PR LA? If so, looking forward to seeing you again there!

  10. Kimber says:

    Love today’s post! ROTFL!

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Strawberry Wrist Pincushion – Free Pattern

It’s a Slap Wrap Pin Cushion!!

Strawberry wrist pincushion 2

Optional needle holder leaf is not shown. That comes later.


I’ve been meaning to make myself a wrist pin cushion for a long time.  I decided to make the pincushion into a strawberry as a nod to dangling strawberry on those ubiquitous tomato pincushions.  Unlike the tomato pincushion, this strawberry would be life size.  Since there’s numerous strawberry stands and farms in my town and I live near the “Strawberry Capital of the World,” it just seemed fitting.  The pattern and construction took me a bit of fiddling around to get it just right.  Since I’ve already went through the trouble, I wanted to share it with everyone.  Who doesn’t need a strawberry pincushion?





 Gather your materials

  • 6″ x 5″ red cotton fabric with white polka dots.
  • 10″ x 6″ green wool felt
  • Poly fill stuffing
  • Metal from a slap wrap bracelet.  I got mine from a vending machine at the pizza place for $0.75.  It was very easy to cut around the edges and remove the metal inside.Slap Wrap
  • Download the pattern here.


Construction Steps

  1.  Cut out your pieces.

    Cut Fabric

  2. Fold the red polka dotted fabric in half on the dotted line.  Sew along the dashed line shown on the pattern.  You will have something that looks like a strawberry cone.  Trim away the excess at the tip.  Turn the cone right side out.Sew Strawberry
  3. Pin the strawberry cone to one of the green felt wrap cover matching the circles.  The strawberry cone should be slightly on the diagonal.  Use the pin to hold the layers together and stitch approximately a 1/2″ circle around the pin.  You will have to push back the extra fabric while you do it. Sew Strawberry onto Wrap Cover
  4. Prepare to sew the cover by laying the pieces down in this order:  Green felt cover, metal slap wrap with the curve facing up, green felt cover with the strawberry cone sewn on it. Assemble Layers
  5. Baste both the green felt covers to the metal slap wrap using a glue stick.  Smooth out any lumps and ensure good contact by rubbing it with your fingers.  Glue Baste
  6. Roll the strawberry cone up and pin it so it’s out of the way.  Draw the outside of the metal slap wrap using chalk.  You can feel the edge of the metal with your finger.Trace Wrap
  7. Using a zipper foot stitch around the cover using your chalk line for reference.Sew Cover
  8. Trim off the excess.  You can either cut a straight or decorative edge.  I decided on a scalloped edge.  I used a paper scissor and muscled my way through the layers.  It was tough and a little messy but worth the effort. Trim off excess
  9. Unpin the strawberry cone.  Run a gathering stitch around the opening.  Stuff the strawberry with polyfil firmly.
  10. Gather and StuffPull the gathering threads to close the opening.  Stitch to secure. Sew close
  11. Attached the stem to the cap by pulling the stem edges through the slit in the cap and stitch to secure. Stem to cap
  12. Pin the cap to the top of the strawberry.  Stitch to attach. Sew cap on
  13. You’re done.  Put in pins and enjoy.Strawberry wrist pin cushionStrawberry wrist pincushion 2

Optional Needle Holder

Like any good pattern maker, I tested the pincushion after I finished it.  I started putting needles into the cushion and proceeded to loose these needles IN the cushion.  So I decided to add a leaf needle holder.

  1. Cut out the optional strawberry leaf out of the green felt.  The pattern has smooth edges.  To make the jagged edges snip using the tip of your scissors.  Make the edges jagged half way down the leaf.Strawberry leaf
  2. Stitch the leaf onto the wrap cover.  Stitch down each of the 3 leaf lobes.  This step is easier if you close up the slap wrap.Stitch on leafCongratulations.  You now have a needle holder.  Make sure when you put your needles on the leaf that sharp end points into the middle of the leaf.Strawberry wrist pincushion with needle holderStrawberry wrist pincushion with needle holder 2


Put in some pins and needles and you’re all set.   I hope you give this pattern a try.  If you do feel free to e-mail me with questions and finished pics.

Strawberry wrist pincushion in use

Happy pin cushion sewing,

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18 Responses to Strawberry Wrist Pincushion – Free Pattern

  1. Julianne says:

    Aren’t you glad slap bracelets are around again? I feel like they disappeared between 1993-2009. Dark days!

    “Strawberry Capital of the World” reminds me of a stripper named Ana I knew about 10 years ago in New Orleans. I’ll tell you the story next time I see you.

    I have not tried a wrist pincushion as an adult, but now I’m thinking about my favorite fruits. I generally just keep a bowl of pins nearby. Do you use yours all the time, or for certain projects or processes?

    • Last I remembered the slap wrap was probably 1991. I didn’t know they stuck around until 2009.

      Yes, we need to get together stripper story aside.

      This is my first wrist pincushion in my entire life. I think it had to do with my new-ish sewing room. It’s so much bigger I’m moving around a lot more and my 1 pound emery pincushion isn’t mobile. I’ve weened myself off of pins but now that it’s so convenient I’ve addicted to it again. I might need to go to pin rehab.

  2. Karen says:

    You’re always coming up with something simple and brilliant! I was just lamenting losing all but one precious needle inside my pincushion. I’m going to add a felt leaf. Voila!

  3. Pingback: How To Make A Strawberry Wrist Pincushion | Mantuas

  4. BeccaA says:

    What a clever idea. I had never heard of a slap wrap before. I may make a velcro close band to use instead if I get my act together to make one of these. So cute!

    • You should definitely try it. It was so easy I was kicking myself for not making one sooner. If I glued the strawberry to the wrist band with Liquid Stitch I would have been even quicker. Give it a try.

  5. Pingback: Tutorial: Strawberry pincushion for your wrist – Sewing

  6. nothy says:

    How adorable! What a smart little notion too – having it on your wrist will keep the pins handy. I’ve been looking for one forever and never thought to make one. How smart.

  7. June says:

    Super cute! I use one that is just a plain magnet on a Velcro wrist strap. Yours definitely has much more style!

  8. Anne says:

    Adorable!! I’ve got a Craft Gossip post that links to your tutorial here:

  9. Kyle says:

    That is really cute!

  10. Ginny says:

    Oh wow, so cute!!! I think I need to make one! But I have never heard of a slap wrap bracelet and am not sure what to look for — is it something I could buy at the craft store?

    • Thanks Ginny. I hope you do try it. Assuming you find the material, of course.

      If you remember back in the late 80s/early 90s, these are the bracelets that are straight and when you hit them on your wrist, it wraps around the wrist.

      I’ve seen them at party supply stores, dollar stores and those machines at the pizza place where you put quarters in and get a little toy in a round plastic container. They seem to be coming back as party favors. Just avoid the silicone ones. You can’t get the metal piece out of those easily. Ask me how I know.

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SBCC Limoncello Cardigan

SBCC Limoncello Cardigan Front

Winter Has Left the Building

Seriously I think we had 2 weeks of winter here in Southern California.  Not that I’m complaining.  Depending on the day it’s feels like Spring or Summer has arrived.  I’ve been looking for thin cardigan to throw on on “chilly” nights.  The SBCC Limoncello cardigan was just what I was looking for.  It was available in PDF so I could make it quickly before the winter decides to come back.  I finished everything but the hemming in one night.  Hemming and pressing the next night and I was dancing around it.  The fabric was gifted to me by my friend Raye Ann.  I think she said she got it at Rimmon Fabrics in LA.  I felt bad about taking so much fabric from her but I’m glad I did.  I had to recut the front numerous times due to repeated user error.  There was no wine involved so I’m not sure what my issue was.

Small Changes

I made 1 size smaller due to the more stretchiness of my fabric.  I lengthen the sleeves to about elbow length/half sleeve.  I prefer 3/4 sleeve but it just didn’t look right with the length of the cardigan.  Lastly I eliminated the back neck bias trim and made a facing.  I thought the trim added too much bulk for my very thin fabric.  It wouldn’t finish the garment as cleanly.  To make the back facing I traced the back piece and cut across almost like making a yoke.  When I sewed it I sandwiched the front pieces in between.  Sorry I don’t have any pics of the steps but it’s very common method of attaching a facing.

SBCC Limoncello Cardigan Facing

I was worried the extra layer would show through but it doesn’t if it’s laying flat.

SBCC Limoncello Cardiga BackI really like the swingy-ness of the back.  Speaking of swingy-ness…

SBCC Limoncello Cardigan Swing This is my best shot and an action shot.  Getting the timer, swinging action and my face to coordinate was a challenge.

Happy Lunar New Year

For anyone celebrating the Lunar New Year, I wish you a year of sewing success.  Chúc mừng năm mới.  That’s happy new year in Vietnamese.


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18 Responses to SBCC Limoncello Cardigan

  1. aleah says:

    Nice! I am currently deep in winter sewing, still, because I’m so far behind I missed our scant two weeks of winter… I love a good light cardigan, but sometimes I feel like we live in the only part of the country that can wear them basically year round. No complaints here either!
    Happy Lunar New Year to you too!

  2. Mads says:

    I love the twirly photo–your face and cardi both look fab! Love the color of the fabric you used, too, especially with your dress!

  3. Elana says:

    I love the color! And I think the sleeves are a pretty good length. It looks like a piece you can make work for almost any season!

  4. Your cardigan looks great! I like the color too.

  5. June says:

    I seriously have no idea how I managed to leave my intended comment (wishing you a happy new year!) on the Papercut Watson entry. I’m going to get some coffee…

  6. Annette says:

    And “Chúc mừng năm mới”. to you and yours also! Happy New Year, Lunar that is. Year of the Sheep.
    And I love your cardigan. I think it looks and came out beautiful! Annette

  7. Accordion3 says:

    What a lovely cardigan – you’ve done a superb job Nhi.

    Careful what you wish for. I thought our summer was a fizzer and was looking at cooler weather clothing. Instead we are having a run of hot days and nights. The town where I grew up is currently being battered by a Category 5 cyclone.

  8. Aura Oriano says:

    Wow, that SBCC cardigan wasn’t even on my radar. I’ve been meaning to buy a SBCC pattern since the Tonic Tee was free. Thanks for the tips on the back neck facing! I love the purple you used. Happy Lunar New Year!

  9. Jane says:

    Just a beautiful result! Thanks for sharing with us!

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Impending Bra Doom!  Eek!!

About 2 years ago I made my first bra.  It was the Pin-Up Girls Anita foam cup bra.  Even then I knew that I needed a dozen more to replace my aging RTW bras.  I use to buy bras at the Victoria Secret during their Semi-Annual Sale.  When I say “buy” it was more like binge buying.  I hate shopping so I just stocked up; buying up any bras that were my size and style just so I wouldn’t need to shop again for a long time.  Now another 2 years later (that’s 4 years for those counting) all of my bras are on their last leg… all at the same time.  Binge buying bites me in the butt.


The Search for Bra Do-dads

My first bra I didn’t wear that much until recently when bras where dying left and right and I had no choice.  They didn’t fit right and I hated the foam cup that was designed for the pattern.  I still love foam cup bras like the Victoria Secret T-shirt bras so I decided to give the Pin-Up Girls Anita and Amanda foam cup patterns another try.  I slowly started amassing bra do-dads.  I picked up components from random places in the LA garment district, the swap meet, on-line and from other sewists’ stashes.  Finding the right foam cups and getting all the components in coordinating colors was a huge challenge.  I know some sewists dye but it’s too messy for me.  So I ended up picking fabric that have multiple colors i.e. multiple matching opportunities.  This really worked for me and relieved me of the stress of trying to match everything.


Let the Binge Sewing Begin

First up: black knit with white and yellow large polka dots.  The fabric was leftovers from this maxi dress.  I love using up scraps.  I was able to use white powernet since I covered it with the polka dot fabric.  For straps I used pre-made white and yellow straps.  The underwire channel is beige but who cares.  No one will see it.  I was making myself crazy looking for matching components when it was so unnecessary.  This is the bra on invisible me.  It has the nice clean lines of a t-shirt bra.  *I’m not sure who to credit invisible bra person to.  I think it was either Sandra from Brown Paper Pattern or Kathy from Kathy Sews.  It was brilliant.*

Black Polka Dot Bra

Forgot to mention that I put a dart in the fabric because my fabric didn’t have enough stretch.  Since the dart is under the bust I don’t see it under my clothes.

Pin-Up Girls Amanda Black Polka Dot

Next up: White fabric with tiny black polka dots.  I bought a small bit of this fabric for a dalmatian plush puppy.  I ended up not using it when I found this perfect dalmatian fabric.

Dalmatian Palm Puppy

Back to the bra… I had bought a very small amount of the now unused white dotted fabric, so it’s been sitting in my scraps pile.  Since bras don’t take that much fabric, it was perfect.  I used self fabric for the straps with a small length of pre-made straps in the back for adjust-ability.  I had black picot elastic so I trimmed the cups and straps.

Pin-Up Girls Amanda White Polka Dot

And finally:  green lace with beige and white flowers.  The lace was left over from my lace undies sewing binge.  I bought the lace in the LA Garment district.  The straps are fold-over elastic with some nice (read: not that stiff, thick stuff from JoAnns) clear elastic in between.  I stitched the layers together using a long swiggle stitch.  Since matching the lace pattern wastes a lot of lace I wasn’t able to make a lacy strap or to cover the back band with lace.

Pin-Up Girls Anita Floral Lace

Bra-mageddon Adverted

I think I’ve delayed Bra-megeddon for a little bit.  I still have lots more bra sewing to do.  Since I’ve tweaked this pattern to my liking, I’m planning to just sew up an arm load.  I hadn’t notice how awfully cheap my VS ones were.  The fabric is glued to the cups.  The bands are filmsy fabric.  The fit wasn’t quite right.  So needless to say, I’m very happy with these me-made bras.

Link to my pattern review.

Happy Bra Sewing,

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19 Responses to Bra-mageddon

  1. Mary M says:

    Hi, I love your bras, they look like they fit vey well. What foam cup did you use for them? BTW great blog too!

    • Thanks Mary. I did see your question on PR. I’ve been looking for where I found them because I shop all over the place. The foam cups are from an Etsy shop called fashionplate. They have a bit more “push up” than I had wanted but they’re the only ones that I’ve found in an A cup and not lightweight/soft. The Bra Makers foam is lightweight/soft and just didn’t work for me.

  2. Ms. McCall says:

    Nicely done! What foam have these got in them? Did I miss that part? They look fantastic – you should take more of my stash off my hands!

    • Thanks. They’re foam cups. As you know I’ve been on the haunt for the perfect ones. These aren’t quite what I wanted but they’re a step up from my RTW ones. I think I’ve already taken plenty off your hands.

  3. Ginny says:

    Such cool bras! Beautifully sewn. I also love using up scraps to sew bras & undies — makes me feel environmentally conscientious, frugal and smug all at once, plus I get new undies :D!

  4. Betsy says:

    these look really great! you did an awesome job! I feel like the only person who hasn’t made a bra yet (well at least not since my first internship for college at Wonderbra). You are totally right though- it’s the notions that make the difference. Getting all the colors right can drive a gal to drink.
    I’m with you on the binge buying. Desperately in need of some new ones but nothing like lots of layers accessorized by snowboots to go and try on new ones.

  5. Raye Ann Clayton says:

    Great job! They look fantastic. You’ve got the stash to binge sew them now!!

  6. Great job! They’re beautiful! I too binge buy bras as much as I can afford at one time (which isn’t many, the larger cup sizes never seem to go on sale!) Yours turned out fantastic! I usually can’t wear moulded cups, but I’ve been eyeing the MakeBra pattern after it was blogged about by both Carolyn and the Clothing Engineer…it’s a seamed moulded cup, which intrigues me.

    • I’ve tried the MakeBra DL01 and didn’t have luck with it. I think part of my problem is that I cheaped out and bought the Sew Sassy version of the foam sheet. It was just too soft and floppy for me. If you want to pay the shipping I’ll mail you some. E-mail me.

  7. June says:

    Great foam cup bras! I have yet to take the plunge but admire from afar. I’m with you on the binge buying, I do that, too.

  8. Kyle says:

    WOW!!!! Your bras look SO professional and SO RTW!!!

  9. Accordion3 says:

    These are amazing! I’m also working on making a bra. Mine will be very plain…

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